First impression after getting the frame out of the box was how light it was; compared with the steel 456 it replaced it’s incredible. Lacquer finish etc was ‘ok’ but for the price you can’t complain. I bought 2 sets of bolt on dropouts – one for gears and one for singlespeed – I’ve used some thread lock on the bolts attaching these and had no problems. The various inserts seem to be aligned well – I quite like the idea of the BB being inside a threaded aluminium sleeve – any water that does find it’s way into the frame isn’t able to get to the BB bearings.

Originally I had planned to be running it with gears but, following a frame failure and a complex parts swap across three bikes it turned out to be a singlespeed in the end. I built it with some 130mm Pace RC41’s but have subsequently fitted some 140mm Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti forks with a QR15 axle. Other parts are Easton low rise carbon bars, 90mm stem and carbon seatpost, Magura Louise brakes, XTR cranks, Salsa cog/ring and Hope Pro2/DtSwiss wheelset. Complete with the 44’s it weighs about 22lbs.I rode it for about 3 months with the Pace forks and was never entirely happy with it – the front end just didn’t seem to allow me to ride the woods at Stanmer the way that the back end seem to be indicating it could. After the fork change the whole bike seemed to come together – the solid front end now tracks really well, deals with roots and obstacles cleanly and the back end (helped no doubt by weighing next to nothing) obediently follows wherever it’s led. I do sometimes miss the ability to lock down (rather than out) the forks but even with a 140mm forks I don’t seem to suffer from wandering climbs – probably as much a result of the bikes geometry as the fact I’ll be stood up pulling faces on anything with a significant gradient due to the lack of gear choices. I know this is a frame review but these Marzocchi forks are great – I’m so impressed I’ve got a set at 120mm on my steel Kinesis Decade Versa.

As well as pinging off and over logs and roots around Stanmer I’ve taken the bike out on a 31 mile Wiggle organised ride on the North Downs (route here – http://connect.garmin.com/activity/83177769) and whilst this was by no means a technical ride it did show me that the bike is far more comfortable over a reasonable distance at good pace than the steel bike it replaced. It’s a solid feeling bike (more so than the steel in some respects) but it has an ability to not transmit ‘chatter’ off the trail that leads to a much more relaxed ride feel.

So, is it worth a couple of hundred quid more than the steel 456? At the moment I’d say yes – it seems to flatter my somewhat mincing approach to obstacles more but at the same time not leave my lower back asking for a rest after 15 miles. This is my first carbon frame and whilst I’ve no reason to doubt its’ longevity there is always a slight worry about crash damage and overall lifespan. I’ve heli-taped the whole down tube and various other places where cables may rub. A good chain stay protector is a must – the stays are so deep I get chain slap occasionally, even running singlespeed with a well tensioned chain.

Things that bother me about this frame – mainly transmitted noise – the slightest squeak from a component (and I’ve not got that many running it SS) seems to be amplified through the frame to the point that you think it’s about to fail – a ‘failing BB’ turned out to be a chain that needed a bit of lube after one very wet ride. It can sound like a Tupperware box full of marbles being shaken on fast descents with loose stones on them as various bits of high speed geology hit the frame. I had some problems getting a disk calliper to fit – they run inside the rear triangle and with the slidey dropouts there was no room for a Magura Marta calliper. On-one do a different non-drive side dropout for geared use that runs the calliper above the seat stay but this won’t work with a SS setup. The only other issue I’ve had is with the On-One headset I use to run a 1 & 1/8^th steerer in a tapered frame – it’s been difficult to get it to run consistently tight enough without being ‘too tight’ – the bottom bearing also needs cleaning out and re-greasing far more frequently than I’d expect on a £40 headset.

So, overall as an upgrade from a steel 456 what have I gained? Well, I’ve not lost the geometry and dimensions that made the steel frame into such a nice ride, which was critical for me. I’ve now got a lighter frame that seems to do everything the steel bike did but it does it all with just a bit more panache.

Oh, and it’s not pink.

Luke

'Radical Amusment'

I bought a Nicolai Helius AC in July 2010. I rode it for a couple of months until the winter mud set in, now that the local trails are drying out it is fast becoming my favourite bike.

This is the second Nicolai that I have owned so I knew what to expect in terms of industrial looking tubes and lovely big welds!

Frame

Pivot and axle braces

Although Nicolai are famous for offering a wide and wild range of colour finishes mine is ‘raw’ eg unfinished aluminium (not polished or laquered) with plain black stickers and black anodised fixtures and fittings. I think it looks great and on almost every ride someone passes favourable comments. The frame is typical Nicolai with the front triangle made from round tubes and the rear made from bulky square section. I think the shape and stance of the frame just look right and perfectly proportioned.  The tubes are all joined by huge symetrical welds that are a stand out feature on their own. All the pivot points have sealed bearings with protective covers. At each pivot plane there is a supporting strut of aluminium, this is not noticable on first glance but it means that any lateral movement on the frame is taken by these struts and not translated into sideways stress on the bearings. I have owned a number of FS bikes including a few boutique brands and non have had this degree of thought/design put into removing bearing stresses.  There is zero lateral flex in the frame, it is incredibly stiff and the bearings are silky smooth.

The suspension can be adjusted from about 100mm to about 150mm, it is simple task that involves moving the upper shock position into one of a number of pre-tapped holes in the swing arm.  For me adjustable suspension adds no value to a frame, I wanted 150mm of travel so put it in the maximum travel setting and have left it there. I figure a 150mm travel frame lends itself to a particular build that is wasted on a 100mm setting, if you want 100mm of travel buy a different frame and build it with light-weight components. The suspension is a Horst link design with the upper shock position fixed to a swing arm dropped from the top tube, the suspension action is very smooth and works well – nothing more to say on it.

Build

The build is my usual tried and tested components many of which have been donated from the spares box and other bikes in the garage. Wheels are Mavic 719 built onto Hope ProII hubs with Maxxis 2.5 inch high roller tyres and Dr Sludge tubes. A Fox 32 140mm float R fork with 15mm axle, Formula brakes with180mm rotors front and rear, SRAM X9 shifters and rear mech, XTR front mech, cassette and crankset (outer ring replaced with a bash guard), Thomson seatpost and stem, Fizik Gobi saddle, CK headset and Azonic bars ‘high rise and wide’. The frame is a large size and came fitted with a Fox RP23 shock.  It weighs in at 27lbs, it rides well and thats what matters. The fork and shock sag were set and that was it, build finished.

Ride

I’m not one for fiddling with shock or fork settings etc, I set the sag and rebound (2 clicks from maximum speed on the fork and 3 clicks off slowest speed on the shock) and leave everything else alone, the RP23 ‘Pro-Pedal’ is left in the open position.

My Helius AC

The large size frame fits me very well and my favourite components mean there are no surprises. Cruising along it feels like a bike, it is comfortable the suspension is invisible not over active and not wallowy, it smooths small bumps nicely and the bike is very comfortable. I have done a few 35 mile rides with no signs of discomfort such as sore shoulder or lower back, neither do I feel like I’m dragging a dead-weight along. A 150mm travel bike is designed for more than cruising and I like technical trails, not steep or smooth but technical eg rooty, rocky and full of awkward stuff.  Basically the faster I go on this bike the more alive it feels. On contour hugging singletrack it whizzes along, the bottom bracket is fairly low and the bike feels glued to the ground, all humps and bumps, roots etc are dealt with without any drama, it just gets on with the job. On my favourite technical terrain I have clunked the bash guard a few times but thats what its there for. Big obstacles and fallen trees are no problem and can be taken much quicker and with much less caution than on my hardtail. I feel confident on steep rooty descents. The front is reasonably relaxed without being like a chopper. As I said as the speed increases the bike feels better and better, it just flows along, around and over everthing and encourages me to find roots and rocks etc to launch off. The ride is awesome on the Surrey Hills trails.

The Helius AC was a replacement for a SC Blur LT2.  The Blur was nice to ride aggressively but was heavier and felt more sluggish on slow stuff; however the main problem I had was that the lower swing link was proud of the bash guard. This meant that the swing link and lower grease nipple regularly clunked on trees and rocks resulting in a couple of replacements. Also, the head angle of the Helius AC is slacker than the Blur LT2, increasing confidence on steeper stuff. These two factors together with the lighter weight of the Helius AC mean that for me it is the better option. I have an Intense Tracer which is an absolute blast on anything technical – a total hooligan; however the weight and ride position of the Tracer are noticable on longer cruising rides so it is reserved for playing and twating about when I want to get carried away. The Helius AC is the bike I reach for if an all day xc ride is planned or if I’m going somewhere new as I happy doing everything on it. A great all round bike.

Conclusion

I like the Helius AC a lot, a real lot and I can’t see me getting rid of it for a long long time – coming from me that is a great compliment!

Fizik Gobi Xm Wingflex

To change or not to change: that is the question. Whether t’is easier on the behind to suffer the dings and harrows of outrageous log and dune or to catch limbs amongst a sea of timber and by avoiding, miss them ? Choosing a saddle is difficult.

Some are loyal to the one seat moving it from from post to post, others may discount it as completely unimportant but a good saddle makes a difference.

Some Spesh ones I find look good but are less comfortable on a long ride but WTB may look less sleek but last a full day. On primarily longer rides the old Koobi PRS with a split nose was great especially on hard summer tracks and coped with the Surrey Hills.

Playing technical, a change to a short saddle made moving on and off easier and encouraged more body english generally. A longer ride on a bridleway felt harder but orange detailing justifies any choice!

Gobi seems to be the consistent comparison review winner but a custom orange microtex costs €130…..so standard black had to replace the worn through one, orange details and all. A researched choice for me but still a buy and try.

Ronnie's Shooting Stick

It feels a little concave like a shooting stick but sliding off front and rear seems easy but you need to be deliberate. The centralised position improves power transfer as you can level your hips and drive to a full leg extension. Even if you are trying to emphasise circles a full leg position is more efficient. Less experienced riders tend to notice this more on a longer ride and several new faces have gained an instant gear by raising the seatpost.

A Joplin allows me to rise and fall but the Gobi still feels stronger in a heavier gear. It does not give a free gear out but it helps on a long climb. A fast cadence and the benefit disappears.

Overall the weight is great, it fits neat to the seatpost clamps as it is easy fit and easy removal, the slip versus grip seems good and it cleans easily. It does not shed water like its vinylette cousins but it does not get soggy either. Mud still sticks underneath despite a mudguard but rinses off.

Early days yet but seemingly the reviews were accurate.

Ronnie in non-orange bag shocker

If your bike lives in the garage all winter then summer gear will probably suffice for spring and autumn too. If you venture further out into the cold and the rain then a waterproof shell, long trousers and a base layer may need to be added to your wardrobe. Eventually when you have added lights, hats, full finger gloves, winter jerseys, mudguards, winter tyres and supermarket bags to waterproof your feet you might think the list was complete however even your favourite backpack may need a little help.

A rain guard which can be either water resistant or waterproof is hung over the whole backpack but it needs removing for access and occasionally falls down to be trapped between your rear mudguard and the rear wheel where it rapidly fills with mud. An alternative is to use an internal dry bag but exterior pockets and the sack itself get soaked. The solution is a backpack where the material is waterproof and the zips are water resistant as a minimum specification.

A trawl through the internet found a number of bags available. Gourdon, Overboard, Exped, Kappa, Caribee, Ortlieb, Boblbee, Aquapac and Dakine all made my list but they all had different advantages and, of course, the ideal was a mix of the better elements of all the bags.

The Exped was simple, less expensive and a good colour, may be suitable for many riders but the Overboard floats, and could be used in the summer on the water. A pre-Christmas discount had finished so it seemed poorer value for money. Ortlieb was more expensive but it had looked bulkier and more rigid but a good colour again.

Eventually I settled on the Aquapac, which is one of the more expensive backpacks, but it had exterior mesh pockets for tubes, latex gloves and drinks, and divided insides for separation of layers from food, tools and camera. A transparent pocket for money, house keys and phone seemed very useful and a hook for a car key to avoid fumbling in the dark another good idea. An unusual feature is that the internal pocket is yellow with a white interior to improve visibility when scrambling for items in a darkened wood. There are hooks for attaching things like rear lights and an exterior pocket that you can squeeze in a half full bladder if you remove the support pad/seat.

After a few rides it has proven waterproof, comfortable on short fast and long slow rides, access is easy enough through the roll top closure and the side mesh pockets are secure. The poorer elements are the waist belt missing a central buckle, now added, and the mesh pockets being so deep that you need to take the pack off to pull out a bottle of drink, hence the need for changing the waist belt.

So if you need a bag tested under a waterfall on Youtube to ensure it meets the rigours of Stanmer then buy one quick before the trails turn dusty.

I drop down, then get up again

you’re never going to keep me down

I drop down, then get up again

I’m never gonna clear that jump…

Even with a quick release lifting and dropping your saddle takes too much time and that is why you do not really bother. Some of us ride with the saddle too low and develop the attractive hunchback look for most of the next day and others find ourselves in the dark on tip-toe trying to find a ledge of air as we roll to a stop on top of a wet log.

A seat dropper will not turn you into a guardsman or provide temporary levitation but it gives you more room. You do not need to compromise and that gives you body space on the jumps and forces you to move over the bike before the obstacle, over the obstacle, after the obstacle and it makes it easy to remount when you pick yourself up from the mud.

It does add a little weight so for the roadie bodies you will be compromising the gains of the carbon brake levers but for most of us – well.

The main drawback, apart from the high cost, has been the reliability and this still looms above any potential purchase. But several of us are using different models and complaints of failure are rarer. You may need to clean it a bit and you will need to carry out a bit of maintenance but does it help.

Sure it does, because you no longer fire yourself into the undergrowth when you ‘thump your rump’.

We all make the old mistake of not getting back behind the saddle on the steeper drops, just one little hump and thump. Bent arms, folded over the bars, fight for control and pretend you had plenty in reserve; if you manage to stay upright that is.

So long term use for this Crank Bros-Maverick remake has been trouble free. I have kept it clean and I check the knurled clamp to ensure it does not loosen but it keeps working. Up and down.

I do not have the remote lever on the handlebars which may help a racer or allow a quicker drop in an emergency but the below saddle lever seems an easy reach.

I have used some carbon paste on the seatpost as it helps the fit and reduce the clamp strength and because you move the seatpost less frequently than a standard post.

Is it for everyone? – probably not, but for the less confident it makes jumps and obstacles a little easier and when lifted it helps by about a gear on a hill rather than leaving the seatpost dropped.

So consider investing a little money, (£100 cost for this), and gain a little space on the hard bits as winter has arrived again.

I drop down, then get up again

you’re never going to keep me down

I drop down, then get up again

I’m never gonna thump my rump…

KMC x9L gold

Suffering rain and mud and stones and dust and logs and then have to jump happily at the touch of a button; it’s a hard life being a chain. Expected to bounce faultlessly over the rocks and then withstand huge tension from my third of a horsepower, well maybe a quarter, we only complain about chains when they let us down.

After trying lots of different chains at different price points from different manufacturers I tried KMC for the first time last year. More expensive, even with a discount, I hoped it would last more than my average three months to justify the extra cost and a year on it still runs perfectly.

My chain checker shows that it has not stretched out to the 0.75 mark and only some of the gold plating has worn away. Used with Rock and Roll Gold it has been completely ignored except for an odd clean and lube as it has been perfect.

Not everyone likes the titanium nitride colour, as has been pointed out to me on numerous occasions, or has the right bike colour but just for you there is another option, something dull… to match your bike.

It is quite light, equivalent to Sram high end chain weight, it sheds mud easily but needs the open inner plate clean when re-lubing, it accepts chain cleaner thrashing without complaint and the link can be re-used.

I used to prefer Sram chains (link) but found more recent Shimano sets grumbled less with a Shimano chain and changed smoother under load. I have not tried it with a Sram set up of cassette and rear mech but it seems better in changing and reduced noise compared to the Shimano chain.

It is not the lube, which I like very much, (dry, mud free, see other article) just the chain.

Recommended? – yes, marks – 10, buy another? – waiting in a little box on the side already.

Having previously used Mallet and Acid pedals my concern was weight and durability.

Weight was substantially less than both of these and riding feel seemed identical. As they are not worth repairing (£15 new, 2010 kit £13)  I had hoped for a years use and six months on they seem fine in operation although I have lost one of the plastic, screw in nut axle covers. They look a little used but still sufficiently orange.

As I attempting to improve my gravity restricted air skills at present using flat pedals it means that I have been swapping back and forth so I have probably been a little more aware than normal of wear and condition but overall I have been pleased with the purchase.

The footprint is smaller than I would prefer and the grip points tiny so trying to use them unclipped is less then ideal however they are equal to the Acid platform but less so than the Mallet.

They make an ideal first choice if you have only used Shimano pedals before as the extra float seems kinder to older knees and the cleat set up is straightforward. The cleats do wear but I have usually managed anything up to one year of use. Unclipping unintentionally is the sign for a change but even worn they clip in easily and hold when pedalling normally. A large vertical force when jumping (poor technique like mine) or a large lateral load when swiping singletrack corners (poor technique like mine) tends to pull the shoe out when the cleats are worn.

Overall recommended especially in orange

USE TORO light

First thing I noticed was how solid the Toro feels in the hand, it feels indestructible, all touchable parts except the lens are solid aluminium. I’m sure it would still be working after many a crash. There are multiple light settings controlled by a single rubber switch but to be honest I only want on and off, the others are a luxury that I don’t use and if there was an option not to pay for them I would select it.

I don’t really take much notice of the manufacturers light outputs etc as I think the lens and reflector design and clarity are equally important; however here is a comparison of the USE range.

The light output of the Toro is very good and more than up to my night riding, my own lights have both bar and helmet mounted units so a comparison is in order; therefore personal preferences come into the equation. The cable-less design is brilliant and is an added value (it is difficult to go back once you’ve tried it), although the Toro is very solid and feels indestructable the weight is not noticeable when riding, a battery life of 3 hours on full-setting was more than sufficient for me.  I did the usual thing of turning it on while looking into the lens and was nearly blinded – it is very bright.

In use the Toro provides more than enough light for woodland trails long after the sun has set, the light spread is very good with both the central area and peripheral zones illuminated. In twisty and technical singletrack the illumination is good but not in the way I’m used to.  I’m used to both helmet and bar lights, I point the bar light onto the ground 5-10 yards in front of me and use the helmet light to look around. This is not possible with a single Toro unit but then the light spread covers a large area. I know my own lights are water/mud proof and pretty much indestructible, the individual components are also available separately so if anything does go wrong the outlay is not prohibitive. It would be possible to build a bar and helmet system from the USE range but the cost would be very high (A Toro and Diablo combination would be likely be stunning but very expensive). USE state that replacement spare batteries can be bought and plugged into the back of the unit, I’m not interested in this I want something that has the appropriate battery life without faffing about changing them. After trying the Toro I’m not too sure of the point of the Maxx-D as I can’t believe it could be any brighter, also USE need to make more of any water/mud proof claims.

Conclusion

If I shelled out for the Toro I would be very happy with it, the cable-less design is truly brilliant and the illumination it provides is very good. Would I replace my existing set-up with the Toro? No, I will buy the replacement parts as mine wear out. I am also stuck in my habit of having separate bar and helmet lights and going back to a single one would be  a retro-step. Overall I think the Toro is  an excellent design but it is expensive.

I think USE should offer a dedicated singletrack  mtb light set with both  bar and helmet lights together with 4 hour batteries, keep the cable-less design and fixing system. Forget about the multiple power options and flashing etc (either have the max or secondary setting and nothing else), lose the engraving. Keep it simple and at the £300-00 mark, I’d be very, very tempted.

It’s a great piece of kit and many of our regulars have USE lights similar to the Toro so there is no doubting that they are effective. If in doubt try it.

Contact Ben or Alan at Freedom Bikes (01273 681698) for a demo on a night ride, but be prepared to buy it as it is very good!

Gore Phantom Jacket

I’ve had the Gore Phantom jacket for 14 months and to be honest until the last couple of months it has seen very little use. However, now when I have got used to it it has become a popular item of bike kit.

The Phantom jacket is a totally wind proof except for the central back panel, it also has a shallow tactile fleece lining and zip off arms. While not advertised as waterproof it has proven shower proof in the recent downpours. The construction of the jacket is what makes it both good and bad as it can be very warm if it is used as a conventional mtb jacket. The fit is relaxed, I’m not the smallest mtb’er and the XL is not a snug fit.

My usual mtb atire is a couple of old threadbare merino base layers and then depending on the weather a heavier merino shirt with a Race Face mtb top or just the base layers. When I first got the Phantom I used it in place of a conventional jacket eg on top of all the merino layers, big mistake,  I rapidly ended up becoming uncomfortably hot. In view of this the phantom was consigned to the cupboard at the bottom of the mtb clothing pile.

The recent strong winds make riding uncomfortable so I dug out the windproof Phantom and following advice from other owners I wore it on top of a single tatty merino layer, it was a revelation. Worn like this the Phantom is snug  and warm but not at all too hot and the temperature is easily regulated by opening and closing the front zip. I now reach for the Phantom jacket for cold weather rides and only leave it at home if I’ll be riding on the exposed South Downs in rain or if the weather is warm.

Would I buy another? perhaps, I certainly don’t find it as indispensible as others seem to and I don’t find it as versatile as my gillet. If it was waterproof that would be an extra benefit but could make it less breathable. In conclusion it gets a lot of use but I have a nagging doubt that it is not really the type of kit that suits me.

Muddy Moles take on the Phantom jacket.

Satin 456Ti

I’ve been riding an On-One 456 Ti for the last 14 months, here are my thoughts. 

My previous hardtails have been aluminium and although I’d heard that steel and titanium give a different ride feel I was dubious until a test ride (previously written up on this site). The test ride blew me away, I bought one and I’ve been riding it ever since.

Build

18″ inch 456 Ti frame in polished finish with decals, Mavic 719 or 321 rims, Maxxis 2.35″ highroller tyres with DH slime tubes, Formula ORO brakes with 180mm rotors front and rear, Fox 32 vanilla forks (15mm axle), XT crankset, SRAM X9 shifters and rear mech, Thomson seatpost (Fizik Gobi saddle) and 90 mm stem with Azonic B52 high rise bars. It weighs in at 27.5 lbs.

Riding

The frame has a longish top tube and a very short headtube so I fitted 2″ high bars 30″ wide, the bars together with  the 140mm Vanilla fork lift the front giving me a perfect position which is very upright and not cramped.  The ride position is very comfortable and as well as singletrack I’ve done 50 miles rides with no discomfort on my back or neck. The comfort is also helped by the very thin chain and seat stays, when I lean my chest on the saddle and push down both the seat and chain stays can be seen to flex, large volume tyres also play a part. Basically it has a very comfortable riding position.

In singletrack the bike just flows around and over everything, it’s still a hardtail so long bumpy sections punish my calves but apart from this it is awesome. The geometry is perfect for technical challenges, the front is relaxed enough to give confidence on steep stuff but not enough to be too wandery on climbs. Getting weight over the back wheel is easy. On my local rides around the South Downs and Surrey Hills I do not feel at any disadvantage when my buddies turn up with their FS bikes. It is slower on the rough stuff than a FS bike but it is great fun and this is what counts. I’ve started to play a game of getting up to speed and riding a trail without braking or pedalling - brilliant – although I’ve yet to make many of the trails without coming off. Some of our local trails have a plenty of jumps and the 456Ti takes these without a care although I did worry that I might bend it as I’m not the most svelte or skillful rider.

Ovalised Mech Hanger

My worries about damaging the bike came true on 15th November during one of our rides from Whiteways. A smallstick 1cm diameter stick got jammed in the rear mech, I felt it and stopped pedalling but the damage was done. The rear mech was ripped out of the frame and worryingly the mech hanger which is part of the frame and not replacable was badly bent and the bolt hole ovalised. Swearing and elbow grease straightened the mech hanger enough for it to be servicable but the thread damage and ovaslised hole were a headache. 

A call to On-One resulted in an e-Mail from Mark Lynskey advising what could be done to repair the damage. On-One also offered me another frame under their replacement policy at less cost then their recent sale items. After weighing the pros and cons I went for the replacement frame, it is satin finish with decals rather than the polished finish of my original but crucially it does not have the chain/seat stay brace of the new design that I think looks ugly.

Conclusion

I originally bought the 456Ti as a second bike but it is the first one that I reach for no matter where I’m going, I do have a FS bike that is confined to playing in dry weather. I don’t have any emotional attachment to any of my bikes past or present but the 456Ti is virtually perfect for me, I often say if anything happened to it I would replace it with another immediately – in fact I did!  An awesome bike.